We hired a cab to take us to the apartment and the cab took a circuitous route making us think that we were far away from action. But that wasn't the case as walking distance to city centre was our standard 15 minutes as walking paths are very conveniently constructed.
Apartment with a view
Apartment Marinka Viskovic had an excellent location up the hill. Our apartment was 3 floors up which was a struggle with the luggage but once we opened the door of terrace, the breathtaking view made us forget everything else. The owners offered us nice cold beer and we sat there relishing the cold beer and watching the deep blue sea. The supermarket was not too far so we purchased some grocery for breakfast for next morning. The beach and sea was hundreds of steps below so we walked down looking for a swim and some place to have lunch.
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| The view from apartment. Pakleni islands are all spread out in front of us |
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| What a place to have breakfast 1 |
It was fun jumping into cold water and many were doing it. There was a restaurant but it was only serving drinks and snacks. It was occupied by boisterous group celebrating a friends' bachelorette. So we walked to other side where we could see a large restaurant and hear the music.
On reading the signboard I realised that we had reached the famous bar called the Hula hula. I had read a lot about it on travel sites. This was a lucky break as it turned out to be so near our apartment.
HULA HULA
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| The view of Hula Hula from our apartment at 6 PM. |
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| Hula hula at around 3 PM |
It was around 3 PM and the place was more or less full. The atmosphere was relaxed. With great difficulty we did get a place to sit. Actually this place is famous for sundowners so many throng here after 5 PM. The table we got was also reserved for someone for 5 PM. Then 6 PM onwards you can see people walking towards the bar from all directions. They stay on till small hours of morning.
We enjoyed the music, swum in deep blue sea , had some nice cocktails and lunch. As the evening progressed, the music got louder. From our apartment we had the clear view of Hula Hula and in the evening we could see that the place had become totally packed with colourful people and there was loud music, dancing and a lot of noise. It was the kind of noise which indicated that people were having fun.
Hvar City
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| The port, restaurants and shops are all in a very compact area. The fort is lit up at night. |
The winding path got us to Hvar city in 15 minutes. Weather had become nice and cool and we saw the imposing structures of
Fortren Fortica, Hvar Cathedral and Franciscan monastery as we walked to where the action was. The owner of our apartment had given us names of same famous bars and restaurants. The fort looked imposing on top of the hill and looked lovely lit up at night.
We didn't go to other areas like Stari Grad but spent the evenings at Hvar City centre. There was a lot to do here and as it was a compact place, everything was happening in the lanes and by lanes around the waterfront.When you are in place like Hvar, the things you concentrate are drinks, food and clubbing.
Soccer Fever
Croatia was playing Nigeria that evening. The big screens had been put up in parks and in restaurants. The national dress of red and white was omnipresent. The expectations of Croatians were high from the team lead by Luka Modric. As we walked from our apartment to the waterfront through the old city, the big screens were going up all over. There are many open spaces and parks where the atmosphere had started becoming stadium like. Restaurants expected to do roaring business that evening and it seems everyone was waiting for 8 PM. Frankly speaking, I doubted if they would make to the knockout stage as they were in a tough group. They scored 2 goals that night and the sound of cheering reverberated from the whole town. The match got over at around 10 PM, the local time and then the fireworks lit up and the whole town got into a party mood.
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| Celebrations after the victory |
The thrill of Boat
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| Kunaal and Kartik on the wheel |
Near the Hula Hula bar we met Anthony who was in business of hiring out boats. I wasn't too keen on it but my cousin Kunaal was adamant that he wanted to zip around in a speedboat. Anthony gave us training for an hour. Parking the boat and saving it from ropes and corals seemed to be the most difficult part. Kunaal and Kartik took training on the wheel while I listened to the instructions. We also learnt controlling the speed, maneuvering and anchoring.
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| Devicka and me enjoying the boat ride. |
Then we were off in bright sunshine and sparkling deep blue water of Adriatic sea. We passed several luxury boats with good looking people on them and we passed big huge boats whom we referred to as 'bullies' as they would drive us away from their path. The ride on boat was thrilling and exhilarating. Even though the sun was hot, the cool breeze hit our face with sprays of water. We crossed several islands known as the Pakleni islands and decided on
Palmizana to stop for lunch.
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| Relaxed atmosphere at Palmizana island. |
The bite of the Sea Urchin
Anchoring was successfully done after dropping the ladies on jetty. We jumped into the water after anchoring to get to the shore and just as I was about to climb up, the hundreds of thorns of a sea urchin entered the top of my foot.
It was painful and it was troublesome but luckily I found a sweet waiter at the Italian restaurant who got me first aid and told me not to worry as those thorns would come out in a week or 10 days. I did worry as I didn't want an injury or septic foot in the middle of a holiday. Many locals advised me to keep pissing on the affected part ! That was the local remedy which apparently had been tried and tested. We had a leisurely lunch at the island and it was tough finding a place as all restaurants were packed. Then climbing onto the boat was tough while it was anchored so Kunaal and Kartik did that job ( all those who watched this process were thoroughly entertained) and brought the boat to the jetty to pick us up.
We returned the boat to Anthony in the evening. I think this was a day which all of us enjoyed very much .The idea of pissing on my foot did not appeal to me so I dipped my foot in hot water for quite some time and my daughter Sanya was kind enough to take out many of those thorns very patiently. Though I was troubled a bit by this for next few days, but it was not something which would spoil the holiday.
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| Dr Sanya in action ! |
Vibrant Evenings
The crowds begin to gather at the Kiva Bar at around 7 PM and by 10 PM, it is impossible to enter the bar so most people stand outside. The cocktails are at a special price and their 'Tequila Bum Bum' is most popular. I wanted to see the atmosphere so I waded into the crowds and it was fun having a cocktail for which you had to fight so hard.
Kiva is just one of the pubs in this bustling town. Hvar is a place which doesn't sleep during the summer months when tourists throng here for partying. I have already written about Hula Hula Bar.
When you walk back at night from the town to the apartment, you find many youngsters in inebriated state not knowing where to go.
The Archie's bar, The Atelier and Veranda were some popular places but
most popular place for the nightlife was the Carpe Diem beach. Just outside the Carpe Diem restaurant, there is a place from where you get boat taxis to take you to this island which comes alive after 11 PM and you can drink and dance the whole night long.
We did go to many places in Croatia but if I were to go again and spend a few days in one place, Hvar would be that place. Just loved it.
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