The Baltics – Europe's hidden secret.

A ten day itinerary for Latvia, Lithuania and Poland

Paris, Rome, Interlaken, Vienna, Salzburg and London are where most Indians head to escape the gruelling Indian summer. It is another matter that, thanks to global warming, much of Western Europe has also begun to feel like a burning pot during June and July. Not many think of the Baltics, and after spending almost two weeks there this summer, I kept wondering why this lovely region remains so underrated. We had our first taste of the Baltics a few years ago when our cruise ship docked at Tallinn for the day. The city had an irresistible old-world charm, with its forts, castles, cobbled streets, beautiful churches and cosy cafés. We all loved it and promised ourselves that we would return one day to explore the rest of the Baltic countries. This summer, the plan was to visit Latvia and Lithuania. I had been reading about Riga and Vilnius, and both sounded perfect for a summer break. We considered flying with Finnair via Helsinki, but since we had already been to Finland a few times, we decided to travel via Poland instead. It also gave us the opportunity to visit a new country. LOT Polish Airlines operates a direct flight from Delhi to Warsaw, followed by a short one-hour connection to Riga. Since Poland, Latvia and Lithuania are all part of the Schengen Area, a single visa was all we needed for the entire trip. The three Baltic states—Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania—have had a turbulent history. They were once part of the Russian Empire, later occupied by Nazi Germany during the Second World War, and after Germany's defeat were incorporated into the Soviet Union. They regained their independence in 1991 during the remarkable Singing Revolution. Since then, all three have joined the European Union and transformed themselves into modern, prosperous nations. It is remarkable how quickly they have emerged from the long shadow of Soviet rule. What followed over the next twelve days was a delightful mix of medieval old towns, pristine forests, Baltic beaches, excellent beer, efficient public transport, and some of the friendliest cities we have visited in Europe. 

Riga (Latvia)

What had I read about Riga before reaching there?

 "Riga is the captivating capital of Latvia, famed for its UNESCO-listed Old Town, stunning Art Nouveau architecture, and vibrant culture where the Daugava River meets the Baltic Sea." 

That sounded good enough for us. We chose Wellton Riga Hotel & Spa, located on the edge of the famous Old Town, and it turned out to be an excellent decision. The location was fantastic. It was just a three-minute walk to the bus station, six minutes to the railway station and barely eight minutes to the river. The city trams glided past our hotel at all hours. Hundreds of pubs and restaurants surrounded the hotel, while beautiful parks were scattered all over the city. Devicka and Sanya were delighted because the shopping centres were also within walking distance. The hotel also had a very good spa with a swimming pool, hot tub and other facilities. However, unless you booked a massage, there was an extra charge to use the spa. After several days of walking, we thought a relaxing massage would be the perfect way to recharge. Unfortunately, it turned out to be the biggest disappointment of the trip! The therapists looked strong enough to sort out all our aching muscles, but the massage itself felt more like someone gently brushing feathers over our backs and legs. We kept waiting for the real massage to begin—but it never did. We made a decision then and there: the next massage would be in India, at a fraction of the price and with far greater satisfaction. 

While much of Western Europe was reeling under an intense heat wave, we were happily walking around Riga in jackets, enjoying the cool June weather. Rain threatened us almost every day, but somehow it never really disrupted our plans. In any case, we had deliberately kept our itinerary flexible. Somehow, we managed to do everything we had planned, even though one day the city was under a yellow weather alert. Most of Riga's attractions are concentrated within the UNESCO-listed Old Town. For lovers of architecture, Alberta iela is a must. It is the city's famous Art Nouveau district, where one simply walks along admiring the ornate façades designed by some of Europe's finest architects. We wandered through the lovely parks, visited the magnificent House of the Blackheads, climbed to the top of St. Peter's Church for panoramic views of the city and also stepped inside the former KGB headquarters. Every city has its own character, and Riga revealed a different one on our very first evening. Large, lush green parks seemed to be everywhere. In fact, we spent a lot of time walking through parks in all three countries.

It was a Wednesday and I had read about Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs, a popular basement pub just a short walk from our hotel. From outside it looked like any other quiet restaurant, but the moment we descended into the basement the place came alive. Folk dancers performed first, followed by a lively band, and before long the entire crowd was singing and dancing. There were several bar counters, excellent local beer and a surprisingly good food menu upstairs. It turned out to be one of the highlights of our stay in Riga. So while in Riga we did everything that a tourist normally does, we also managed to fit in two wonderful day trips by train. The first took us to the small town of Sigulda, about an hour away. Buying train tickets at Riga Central Station was simple and straightforward. From Sigulda station we took a Bolt taxi to Gauja National Park. Walking through the lush green forests, we reached Sigulda Castle and then climbed up to enjoy breathtaking views of the forests, the Gauja River and the colourful castles scattered across the valley. After several hours of walking, we returned to the town, enjoyed a leisurely late lunch at a café near the station and then caught the train back to Riga. If you have more time, you can also try zip-lining across the valley or take the cable car for even better views.

Our second day trip was to Jūrmala, Latvia's famous Baltic seaside resort. The train ride to Majori takes only 30–40 minutes, and from the station it is a pleasant ten-minute walk to the beach. Despite the cool weather, the beach was buzzing with activity. Instead of sunbathers, there were hundreds of people enthusiastically playing volleyball. The Baltic Sea was simply too cold for a swim. A short walk away is Jomas Street, a lively pedestrian avenue lined with cafés, restaurants and boutique shops. It made for another delightful day outside Riga. By evening we were back in the Old Town, and the atmosphere had completely changed. The FIFA Club World Cup matches were being shown on giant outdoor screens and, as if from nowhere, thousands of football fans filled the squares, pubs and cafés. Most of them were from Eastern Europe, and they celebrated every goal with tremendous enthusiasm. The festivities continued well into the night. 

If you happen to be in Riga over a weekend, make sure you spend your evenings in the Old Town. That is when the city truly comes alive. It is also home to some excellent terrace restaurants, many of which require advance bookings on weekends. Sitting there with a cold beer, good food and views of the Old Town on a pleasant summer evening is an experience in itself. What impressed us most about Riga was that it offered much more than just another beautiful European Old Town. Within an hour by train, you could be walking through forests in Gauja National Park or relaxing on the beaches of Jūrmala. Very few European capitals combine history, beaches, forests and vibrant nightlife so effortlessly. 

Vilnius ( Lithuania)

We simply crossed the road from our hotel in Riga and found ourselves at the city's bus station. The Lux Express bus was extremely comfortable and took a little over four hours to reach Vilnius. We had travelled south into Lithuania, whereas had we travelled north for the same amount of time, we would have reached Tallinn in Estonia. The weather was cloudy, but the endless greenery along the route made for a very pleasant journey. I had deliberately planned Sunday as our travel day because European cities generally slow down on Sundays. We reached Vilnius around lunchtime and, after checking into the hotel and resting for a while, ventured out in the evening. We crossed the river and walked towards Cathedral Square. The cathedral was impressive from the inside as well, after which it was time to explore the Old Town. Since it was a Sunday, the city looked relaxed and unhurried. After wandering through a few lanes and by-lanes, I settled into a pub where football fans had gathered to watch the FIFA Club World Cup. PiliesGatvė (Pilies Street) is the heart of the Old Town, with cafés, bars and restaurants lining both sides of the street. Just as we finished dinner, Curaçao scored against the mighty Germans and the entire pub erupted in celebration. 

One thing that immediately caught our attention was Lithuania's strong support for Ukraine. Banners criticising Putin were visible across the city and several buses carried messages expressing solidarity with Ukraine. It was clear that the people here still feel deeply about Russia's aggression and the ongoing war. When you arrive in Vilnius after the vibrant atmosphere of Riga, you initially feel that something is missing. The city doesn't impress you immediately. Instead, it slowly begins to grow on you. You start appreciating its elegant architecture, slower pace of life and distinct character. From our room at the Holiday Inn we could see the city quietly going about its business.

The real charm of Vilnius lies in simply wandering around. You turn into a narrow lane and suddenly discover a cosy restaurant or a lively café tucked away in a courtyard. Many of the city's best restaurants are hidden in these little streets, and unless you are willing to explore, you would walk straight past them. Unlike many tourist cities where everything is on the main square, Vilnius rewards those who enjoy getting pleasantly lost. The city is also full of beautiful churches. What amazed me was that so many of them survived the Soviet era. Although many were closed or used for different purposes during communist rule, most of these magnificent buildings escaped demolition. Today they once again dominate the skyline, quietly reminding visitors of Lithuania's resilience and strong cultural identity.

 One evening we wandered into Užupis, the city's famous bohemian quarter. At first it appeared to be just another quiet neighbourhood, but then we came across the famous Constitution of the Republic of Užupis, displayed on a wall in several languages including Hindi. Its articles range from the philosophical to the humorous—declaring, for example, that everyone has the right to be happy, everyone has the right to be unhappy, and even that a dog has the right to be a dog. It perfectly captures the quirky and artistic spirit of the area. 

The funicular took us up to Gediminas Hill, from where we enjoyed another panoramic view of red rooftops, church spires and endless greenery stretching beyond the city. The river flowed close to our hotel, so we spent quite some time strolling along the riverfront before deciding that it was time for another day trip. The original plan was to take the train to Trakai Castle on Lake Galvė. However, rain was forecast throughout the day and the Bolt app showed that hiring a cab would not cost much more for the three of us. I had linked my Bolt account to my forex card, so booking the cab was effortless. As soon as we left Vilnius, it started pouring. It rained throughout the drive, but as if nature wanted us to enjoy Trakai, the rain stopped the moment we reached the lake. We had about ninety minutes of perfect weather to explore the magnificent island castle and walk around the lake.

Trakai is a lovely little town and clearly very popular with tourists. It even boasts a Michelin starred restaurant. By the time we had finished sightseeing and settled into a lakeside restaurant overlooking the castle, the rain returned. I didn't mind at all. It gave me the perfect excuse to enjoy a couple of beers and a delicious steak while watching the rain fall over the lake. When it was finally time to leave, the rain once again showed remarkable courtesy. It stopped just as we stepped outside and remained dry until we reached our cab. Vilnius may not overwhelm you on the first day, but give it time. It is a city that slowly wins you over with its quiet elegance rather than loud attractions. If Riga is the colourful and lively part of the Baltics, Vilnius is more laid back and relaxed. By the time we left, I was genuinely glad we had included it in our itinerary. 

Food in Baltics

One cannot travel through the Baltics without noticing their love affair with potatoes and rye bread. Potatoes appear in almost every form imaginable—boiled, roasted, mashed, baked or stuffed—and somehow never become boring. Dark rye bread accompanies almost every meal and, although it looks dense and heavy, it grows on you surprisingly quickly. Pork is perhaps the most common meat on the menu, whether in the form of ribs, sausages or slow-cooked roasts. Beef steaks were excellent and as we don’t get them in India – the burgers and steaks were my go to meals. The café culture is another pleasant surprise. Whether in Riga's Old Town, Jūrmala's Jomas Street or the hidden lanes of Vilnius, there is always a cosy café inviting you to stop for a coffee and watch the world go by. Italian restaurants are plentiful, burgers are surprisingly good and, if you miss Indian food, you will usually find an Indian restaurant in the larger cities—though the quality can vary wildly! We had an excellent Indian meal in Riga, but the one near our hotel in Vilnius served what it proudly called 'Kaali Daal', which, unfortunately, contained no daal (lentils) at all. For me, however, the undisputed star of the Baltics was the beer. Whether it was a crisp lager in a lively basement pub in Riga or a quiet pint in a Vilnius café, the quality was consistently excellent. Most bars served a good selection of local beers on tap, and many also stocked Guinness. After long days of walking through old towns, forests and castles, nothing tasted better than a cold local beer. 

Warsaw (Poland)

 

Warsaw was our final destination before flying back to Delhi and, being the largest city on the trip, it immediately felt different from Riga and Vilnius. It had all the energy and sophistication of a modern European capital while still retaining the charm of Eastern Europe. Our original plan had been to fly from Vilnius to Kraków and spend a couple of days there before moving on to Warsaw. Unfortunately, the Baltic Air flight was cancelled, depriving us of a visit to Auschwitz and one of Poland's most charming cities. But then, not every destination has to be covered in one trip. Some places are best left for another visit, giving us an excuse to return. If Riga won us over with its charm and Vilnius with its quiet elegance, Warsaw impressed us with its confidence. It is a city that has rebuilt itself after unimaginable destruction during the Second World War and today stands proudly among Europe's great capitals. It felt modern without losing its history, and lively without being overwhelming.

Warsaw, however, had everything one could ask for. Elegant hotels, excellent restaurants, beautiful parks, the Vistula River, a lively waterfront, a charming Old Town where one could happily spend hours wandering around, and, much to the delight of Devicka and Sanya, an excellent fashion outlet called Designer Outlet Warszawa, just thirty minutes away by Bolt. We stayed at the Radisson Collection Hotel, which proved to be an excellent choice. Its central location meant that the Saxon Garden, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Royal Route were all within easy walking distance. Even ZłoteTarasy, Warsaw's popular shopping and dining complex, was only a pleasant stroll away. 

One cannot spend time in Warsaw without noticing its deep affection for Frédéric Chopin, Poland's greatest composer. We visited the famous Chopin Monument in Łazienki Park, and it wasn't difficult to understand why it is one of the city's most photographed landmarks. During the summer, the park hosts free open-air piano concerts where people gather to listen to Chopin's compositions beneath the trees. Even though I am not a great follower of classical music, sitting there for a while in the peaceful surroundings made me appreciate why Warsaw is so proud of its favourite son. His presence can be felt throughout the city—from Chopin concerts held almost every evening, to Warsaw Chopin Airport, and even the popular Chopin Vodka, one of Poland's best-known premium vodkas. Few cities celebrate a composer with such pride and affection. 

One thing that made travelling around all three countries remarkably easy was the Bolt app. Whether it was a ride to Gauja National Park, Trakai Castle or the shopping outlet in Warsaw, the process was effortless. We simply entered the destination, the cab arrived within minutes and dropped us exactly where we wanted to go. There was no bargaining, no explaining directions and no language barrier to worry about. The cab drivers, like most of the local people we met, were generally quiet and kept to themselves. They were polite rather than chatty, and we quickly got used to that. What stayed with us even more was the overwhelming sense of safety. Whether we were walking through an old town late in the evening, taking trains for day trips or returning to our hotel after dinner, we never once felt uncomfortable. That, perhaps, was one of the biggest takeaways from our journey through the Baltics and Poland. People often ask me, "Where should we go in Europe next?" Until now my answer was usually Italy, Spain, Switzerland or Austria. From now on, the Baltics will certainly be part of that list. Another advise would be : Just stay away from massages there.